Asparagus — a culinary sign of spring — is fantastic in this dish, but poses a challenge for wine pairing. The incredible vegetal flavors, a fresh treat on their own, can cause most wine to taste like licking a piece of tin or eating a spoonful of baking soda. Stay clear of tannic reds and oaky whites (oak imparts tannin, after all) and opt for lighter, zippier wines. Pick out other elements in this dish to pair with — savory pork, bright ginger and onion, spicy chile sauce — and you’ll be fine.
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MAKE THIS
ASPARAGUS AND PORK STIR-FRY
Heat wok over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Stir-fry until fragrant: 3 cloves garlic, minced; 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger; and 1 bunch green onions, sliced. Add 1 bunch asparagus (cut in 1 1/2 inch pieces); stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes. Add 1 red bell pepper, cut in thin strips; stir-fry, 2-3 minutes. Transfer vegetables to a bowl. Add to wok 1 pound boneless pork cutlets, cut into 1 1/2-inch strips, and 2 tablespoons soy sauce; stir-fry until meat is almost cooked through, about 3 minutes. Lower heat; return vegetables to wok. Season with chile sauce. Serve with rice. Makes: 2 servings
Recipe by Bill Daley
DRINK THIS
Pairings by sommelier Nate Redner of Oyster Bah, as told to Michael Austin:
2014 Pieropan Soave Classico, Veneto, Italy: Soave is composed mainly of garganega, often blended with verdicchio and chardonnay. This Soave Classico, like many, is viscous and weighty, with plenty of acidity. The nutty character of the wine will match nicely with the dish’s aromatic garlic and ginger. There is also enough freshness to cut through the fat, but not too much to make the asparagus taste bitter.
2012 Domaine Ostertag Barriques Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France: Andre Ostertag makes wines of top-tier quality that express both ripe fruit character and a sense of place. This wine displays intense spice components of star anise, cinnamon and clove, which mimics Chinese five spice and intensifies the Asian influence of the dish. The slightest bit of residual sugar in the wine will help quell any lingering burn from the chile sauce.
2014 Burn Cottage Moonlight Race Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand: Thanks to warm and dry growing conditions, this wine has rich dark fruit character reminiscent of plums and blackberries. Along with those flavors, the wine’s warm spices will complement the ginger, garlic and soy combination, while softening the soy’s salinity. The wine’s very fine tannins will also help keep the fat in the dish in check.
