How nice it would be to get a couple of pork belly buns, sit at the comfortable bar at this new Decatur restaurant and get a pint of a good local microbrew.
The buns are great, but the rest of Makan’s pan-Asian menu remains troublesome. The kitchen’s ambitions, which draw on both Asian street food and Chinese family dinners, outstrip its execution.
Comfort dishes, such as fried rice and ramen, deliver a salt overload. Edgy experiments — rice cakes and sweetbreads, anyone? — have blurry flavors. And family-style meals don’t communicate a sense of plenty.
It’s a shame, because this restaurant uses quality local meats and vegetables and has no shortage of interesting ideas about Asian-American cooking in the 21st century.
You might do well ordering a wok-fried whole fish or roast duck for the table with braised greens and rice.
Enjoy the hip atmosphere and good drinks, and hope Makan finds its groove.
130 Clairmont Ave., Decatur. 404-996-6504, makanatl.com. $$-$$$
0 of 4 stars [fair]