Fill up on this Old Fourth Ward pasta dish, back by popular demand


Dish of the week: Garganelli at BoccaLupo

BoccaLupo has a way of sending out dishes that are classic but also fresh and innovative. Bruce Logue’s Garganelli with chicken and veal ragu - delicate fluted tubes of fresh-rolled pasta blanketed in a hearty ladle of meat gravy - is no exception.

The name for the garganelli pasta shape is derived from a northern Italian dialect meaning chicken gullet. The pasta's quill-like form and perpendicular ridges are said to resemble the cartilaginous rings in a chicken’s trachea.

Logue takes squares of egg pasta, rolls them diagonally around a dowel (bastoncino) and then passes them over a ridged gnocchi board. The thin parcels are folded over on themselves, making a visible seam. The pasta reaps the benefits of the texture of the tools used to make it: The golden ridges of the light, eggy noodles trap meat sauce and the openings on the ends allow tidbits to make their way inside.

Logue changes the accompaniments to his rich white ragu with what farmers bring in. Recently, it included Romanesco cauliflower florets and slices of meaty porcini mushrooms. The dish has a gentle richness from hunks of chicken, lightness from the fresh vegetables and a soulfulness from the tender yet toothsome pasta.

It's so good, in fact, that after having been taken off the menu for much of last year, frequent requests have finally brought it back.

BoccaLupo. 753 Edgewood Ave. NE. Atlanta. 404-577-2332, boccalupoatl.com.

RELATED:

More must-try dishes at metro Atlanta restaurants

Best places for pasta in Atlanta, according to AJC readers

 

Read more stories like this by  liking Atlanta Restaurant Scene on Facebook , following  @ATLDiningNews on Twitter  and  @ajcdining on Instagram


Reader Comments


Next Up in Atlanta Restaurant Scene

Puff pastry caps creamy mushroom soup
Puff pastry caps creamy mushroom soup

From the menu of … Chicago’s Steak and Seafood, 4401 Shallowford Road, Roswell; 770-993-7464. chicagosrestaurant.com My husband and I love the mushroom soup at Chicago’s on Shallowford. We would really like to make it at home for company because it’s so unique and delicious with the puff pastry top. We would be very grateful...
Atlanta chefs’ international holiday recipes
Atlanta chefs’ international holiday recipes

The traditional American Christmas dinner calls for a table laden with turkey or ham and all the trimmings, from stuffing, potatoes and gravy to casseroles and cranberry sauce. But American immigrants have always introduced international flavors into the mix, brightening the holidays with dishes from around the world. To celebrate this year, we asked...
Take a load off at some Atlanta's best hotel bars 
Take a load off at some Atlanta's best hotel bars 

There's something special, something iconic, something romantic about hotel bars. Perhaps it's the feeling of exclusivity or maybe it's being treated like a guest − whether you’ve reserved a room or not. Maybe it's the allure of people from all over the country (and perhaps world) coming together inside the city’s finest inns to toast...
Jingle Ball at Krog Street Market, photos with Santa and more in metro Atlanta this week
Jingle Ball at Krog Street Market, photos with Santa and more in metro Atlanta this week

Families can enjoy everything from free cookie decorating to photos with Santa this week. Put on your ugliest Christmas sweater and win a prize. There are several fun, food events happening in metro Atlanta, so add one or all four of the following activities to your calendar. Be prepared to eat, drink and be merry.    Now through Dec. 16...
Try something new with an Australian specialty from this Atlanta eatery
Try something new with an Australian specialty from this Atlanta eatery

What the whitetail deer is to the American South, the kangaroo is to Australia. Despite the fact that they’re both relatively large animals that appear exotic from afar, they’re very common in their native regions. In some areas, they’ve become so common that they’re almost considered pests. Local government often encourages...
More Stories