JOSHUA TREE, Calif. — Wind blows hard and cold over the high desert here, howling between boulders and bending legendary yuccas that once reminded Mormons of the Biblical Joshua reaching up in prayer.
It may be difficult to believe such an environment could capture the world’s imagination. But the combination offers a mysterious and mystical stew that is increasingly intoxicating.
Nearly every day — including weekdays now — long lines of cars roll slowly toward the entrances as visitors from around the globe make their pilgrimage to this national park.
Consider that in the past year, attendance jumped by 25 percent with some 2.5 million people visiting Joshua Tree National Park.
With temperatures well above 90 degrees May-September, part of the reason for long lines is that Joshua Tree has a short sight-seeing season.
Another is its magic.
I’ve spent many days here, hiking, camping, rock climbing. I’ve also spent many nights mesmerized by flames licking from firepits and staring in wonder at a sky with so many stars that they transform the Milky Way into a stream of diamonds.
Only recently, I visited the park expecting an explosion of wildflowers. It’s too early for wildflowers. Give it a few more weeks.
Still, this wondrous place always offers a surprise.
I wound up making a new friend who happened to be from Libya. Around an evening campfire to ward off plunging temperatures after sunset, he offered me the chance to do something very old that was brand new for me — smoking a hookah.
The flavored tobacco’s grape-mint flavor was tasty. The water-cooled smoke was smooth.
Still, tobacco is, well, tobacco. Enough, cough, cough.
With only about two months before summer’s heat, here are my top tips on discovering this amazing land:
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—Day trip: Crowds are so busy right now, park officials have issued a special alert: “Due to record-high visitation numbers, parking lots and campsites are filling every weekend and on holidays.
“Visitors can expect long lines at both the West and South entrances. Be prepared to drive through the park and find other accommodations.”
—Be sure to get: A map, included with your entrance fee at the gate.
—Weather: No joke, Joshua Tree National Park gets hot in summer, figure triple digits during the day, about 75 degrees at night. Climbers avoid the area because the rock is so hot, you can’t touch it for very long.
—Tip: Bring plenty of firewood for toasty evenings, there are fire rings in designated areas.
—Wildflowers: Within weeks, flowers should be in bloom. By mid-April the park should see an explosion of colors. With all the recent storms, I predict the best and longest lasting rainbow of flowers since 2010.
“Select a trail that covers a span of elevations and habitats,” rangers advise, “and you’re sure to find more species than you can count.”
—Water: Rangers advise at least a gallon of water per person, per day; hikers and cyclists should carry more.
—Top three coolest spots:
—1.Skull Rock: Near Jumbo Rocks Campground, includes a 1.5-mile nature trail.
— 2. Barker Dam: Look for the parking lot with the same name on your map, includes a 1.3-mile nature trail with a water cistern built by early cowboys.
— 3. Hall of Horrors: This giant tunnel of rocks offers fun boulder scrambling for children 6 years old and above as well as challenging boulder scampering for adults. But watch where you go.
—Things to do: Road cycling is allowed on main roads, but I am no fan of the narrow bicycle lanes; mountain biking is allowed on designated dirt fire roads, camping is first-come, first-served which means after Friday morning weekends are full; hiking is terrific and allowed on designated trails; rock climbing and bouldering for those who have the skill and equipment is considered some of the best in the United States.
—A parting plea from rangers who care: “As more and more people discover the stark beauty of the desert, it grows ever more important to take care to minimize the impacts of your visit.”
