Lip colors go bold, subversive for fall

Lipsticks in unnatural shades, gellike nail polishes, light foundations are trending.

What’s new for fall? For one thing, the colors are intense, subversive even. When it comes to lips, that’s not exactly a surprise, for goth glam was the breakout look on the fall runways (see the black lips at Dior and Marc Jacobs or the matte merlot at Marni and Rodarte).

New nail polishes aim to mimic gel manicures at home. And new foundations are lighter and more sheer than traditional formulations, some with new applicators. Here, a look at trends and products you need to know.

Fearlessly dark

One of the fall’s most assertive trends is not for the timid: lipstick in wickedly unnatural shades like black, blue, green or yellow. While they are not likely to gain the mass appeal of, say, reds like Heat Wave by Nars or Ruby Woo by MAC, they are proving popular with millennials.

“It’s age appropriate,” said Mylah Morales, a makeup artist who works with Rihanna, who has been photographed repeatedly with cerulean lips. Morales says the key to wearing the colors is balance. “To pull it off, the makeup should be soft and bronzy, so that it doesn’t look too harsh,” she said.

Midnight blue and black are among the shades in the Maybelline New York Color Sensational Loaded Bolds collection, which also includes a chalky hue called Wickedly White. Kaolin clay in the formula helps maintain an opaque finish, although the texture feels notably emollient.

Recently MAC also introduced a line of intense colors, including sky blue and black, as part of its Bangin’ Brilliant collection. Some are easier to carry off than they initially appear, like Wild Extract, a shiny yellowy-chartreuse that is sheer and soft when applied.

Junkie, a shimmery dark green that brings to mind a cucumber peel, is one of the colors in the Urban Decay Vice line, which includes blue and black options. There is also a glittery azure called Frostbite in the limited-edition holiday collection.

Gold is the color

With the enduring popularity of in-salon gel manicures, several nail brands have introduced polish that promises similar results at home.

“They’re really shiny, and they’re supposed to be long wear,” said Rita de Alencar Pinto, owner of Vanity Projects, a nail salon in New York and Miami specializing in gel treatments. Unlike the professional versions, the home products do not require special lamps or acetone removal, which can be damaging.

One of the key shades of the season looks to be gold. “People are loving metallic because of the high shine,” Pinto said. “It goes with everything. It’s fun and festive, but it’s not too much.”

Gel Couture, the Essie version of gellike polish, comes in shades like Sheer Fantasy (essentially a take on Ballet Slippers, a popular pale pink), blues, plums and greens. Its distinctive brush, which is wide and tapers toward its wand, makes application easier than with many polishes.

Nails inc has added an unexpected ingredient to its Gel Effect polishes: charcoal, which is said to protect against environmental pollution. Last spring, the company also introduced Overnight Detox Mask, which is designed to be worn at night over polish-free nails to infuse them with acai and spirulina. “The customer now really cares about nail strength whereas previously she only bought nail polish based on color,” said Thea Green, founder of Nails inc.

A rose gold nail polish, 1972, is one of three new polishes from Smith & Cult, which is carried by retailers like Net-a-Porter and Space NK. In addition to a decidedly autumnal dark green called Darjeeling Darling, there is also a matte top coat. Shake the bottle before use to make sure it goes on without streaking.

To perfect the look

With the success of multitasking BB creams, new foundations with added moisturizers and sunscreen are reaching the market. Many are lighter and more sheer than one may expect from a traditional foundation. “When you’re looking for a foundation, you’re looking for something that’s going to allow your skin to shine through,” Morales said.

Although the new Estee Lauder Double Wear Nude Cushion Stick Radiant Makeup includes Brazilian murumuru seed butter, the key to its appeal may well be the applicator: a wide sponge at the top of each tube that cleverly twists off for cleaning between uses. That cushioned end makes the product, which is a bit gloppy, really straightforward to apply.

Each slim Retouching Wand from Bobbi Brown Cosmetics is punctuated with a sponge applicator. The circular tip is well suited to dab on small, targeted areas and gently rub in. It’s creamy and not overly heavy.

La Mer, best known for its indulgent moisturizers, just introduced the Soft Fluid Long Wear Foundation Broad Spectrum SPF 20. It contains hydrating ingredients like algae and the company’s trademarked Miracle Broth, a component in all of its products. It has a pleasingly light texture and promises to be resistant to both sweat and humidity.

Make Up For Ever Water Blend Face & Body Foundation is quite fluid, with a formula that is 80 percent purified water. It is also waterproof and designed to last all day. The texture makes it quite simple to attain a natural look.

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