A lemon wedge is the ubiquitous companion to a serving of fish, whether pan-seared or coated and fried. That spritz of acid the citrus provides also can come from wine, as it does with these three from Italy, France and Spain. All promise to balance the rich salmon cakes for a simple and satisfying dinner.
Make this: Salmon Cakes
Mix together 1/4 cup mayonnaise, 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill, 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion, finely grated zest of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add 1 3/4 pounds cooked salmon, skin, bones and gray strip of flesh discarded. Mix gently. Pat into 8 cakes, each about 1 inch thick. Roll cakes in 1 1/4 cups fresh breadcrumbs. Heat a thin film of oil in a skillet set over medium heat. Cook salmon cakes in batches until crisp outside and hot inside, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Makes: 8 cakes
Recipe by Leah Eskin
Drink this
Pairings by sommelier Rachael Lowe of Spiaggia, as told to Michael Austin:
2015 Nino Negri Ca’ Brione Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio, Valtellina, Italy: From a mainly red wine-producing region, this white is a blend of slightly dried chardonnay and sauvignon blanc grapes combined with incrocio manzoni and a touch of white nebbiolo. Aged for about eight months in French oak, this wine has a balance of acidity and texture. With notes of mango, papaya, vanilla and a hint of almond, it will balance the salmon’s richness perfectly.
2015 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre, Loire Valley, France: Made of 100 percent sauvignon blanc, this wine is a classic representation of its region. Stainless steel-aged, it provides a true taste of the grape. Green apple, freshly cut grass, wet stone, lime blossom and a hint of pepper will complement the dish’s vegetal notes, while its bracing acidity will cut through the breading and fish. Also, the wine’s grass aromas will align with the dill.
2006 Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia Crianza Blanco, Rioja, Spain: Consisting of 100 percent viura grapes, this wine was aged for four years in the barrel and further in the bottle. Waxy notes of bruised golden apple, macerated lemon skins, marzipan, honey and lanolin accompany a viscous texture. That texture will complement the fatty salmon and the mayonnaise, while the wine’s acidity will balance the lemon. Plus, notes from oak aging will intermingle beautifully with the dill.
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