Three Atlanta bartenders give the old-fashioned a new spirit

The old-fashioned is in fashion again — and how! Barrel-aged, on tap or stirred on the spot and poured over a perfectly chiseled block of ice, there is no escaping this classic cocktail.

Walk into any modern bar and order an old-fashioned, and you’ll most likely be served a drink made with whiskey, plus sugar or simple syrup and a citrus garnish. But, what is now labeled an old-fashioned has become accepted as a style of drink, one that can be made with any type of spirit — not just whiskey — with the usual sugar or simple syrup to temper the alcohol, citrus to brighten it and bitters to intensify the flavors.

We’ve found local bartenders who offer riffs on the old-fashioned guaranteed to get you out of your whiskey comfort zone without losing any of the flavor and booziness you’ve come to know and love.

The Demerara old-fashioned by Kimball House's Miles Macquarrie

This cocktail is a great choice for old-fashioned aficionados interested in exploring variations of the classic drink. This version maintains the boozy bitterness of the whiskey-based original, but uses El Dorado 12-year rum as its base spirit. The rum is bold, dark and aged in bourbon oak casks, giving it a flavor profile similar to whiskey. Demerara sugar syrup, also known as rich simple syrup, adds additional sweetness, while acid phosphate, a type of soda popular in 1950s fountains, adds tartness and cuts the sugar. Angostura bitters are augmented by Bittermans Tiki bitters to create the warmth and spice of a rye whiskey. A large ice cube in the glass preserves the drink’s temperature and integrity as well as maximizing the sipping experience.

Kimball House, 303 E. Howard Ave., Decatur. 678-732-0415, kimball-house.com.

Tequila old-fashioned by H. Harper Station’s Jerry Slater

Proprietor Slater sticks to the classic base spirit-bitters-sugar ratio, but swaps whiskey for Casamigos reposado tequila in this old-fashioned. That particular tequila is aged in whiskey barrels, which adds another layer of complexity and familiarity to the drink. Rather than go with traditional dark and spicy bitters, Slater favors house-made grapefruit bitters because they lend the drink a bright, delicate quality. A grapefruit peel and coarse-grain sea salt add to the cocktail’s tartness, which gives it the feel of a traditional tequila drink with the depth of one made with whiskey.

H. Harper Station, 904 Memorial Drive, Atlanta. 678-732-0415, hharperstation.com.

Where There Is Smoke, There Is Fire by Holeman and Finch Public House’s Kaleb Cribb

Cribb’s specialty takes sweet Wathen’s bourbon and pairs it with smoky Del Maguey Vida mezcal. He then adds a dark sherry for more depth of flavor. Rather than use simple syrup or a sugar cube, Cribb adds local honey for a hint of sweetness, then decanter bitters that offer more sherry notes. Barrel-aged whiskey bitters are a nod to the drink’s usual base of rye whiskey and complete the layered flavor profile. Ready for some fire? This show-stopping drink features flamed orange peel garnish.

Holeman and Finch Public House, 2277 Peachtree Road N.E., Atlanta. 404-948-1175, holeman-finch.com.