First Look: Osteria Cibo Rustico, Toco Hills


DINING OUT

Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

Appetizers, $4.95-$10.95; salads, $6.95-$8.95; pasta, $10.95-$15.95; entrees, $12.95-$17.95; sides, $4.95-$6.95.

2945 N. Druid Hills Road, Atlanta. 678-704-2700, osteriaciborustico.com.

Osteria Cibo Rustico, a new Italian concept from the co-owners of Big Ketch Saltwater Grill and Milton’s Cuisine & Cocktails, recently opened in the Toco Hills Promenade spot formerly occupied by Mirko Pasta.

The look: The space was given a face-lift with a new bar area that does double duty as a cozy foyer with a pair of mini tables. The main dining room features views into the open kitchen. Brick walls, rustic beams and shutters and contemporary booths and cafe tables create a casual atmosphere in keeping with the menu.

The scene: One recent evening, a steady stream of humanity ducked in from a sudden downpour, shaking off the rain and settling in for dinner. A super-friendly crew of servers tended to the crowd, taking time to explain the menu, and quickly delivering plates from the kitchen, where chef Stefano Franciosi manned the pass.

The food: The entire menu from appetizers and pasta to entrees and sides is meant to be shared. Creamy ricotta is topped with herbs, olive oil and toasted almonds and served with grilled bread ($6.95). Pastas include radiatore ariano with grilled chicken or shrimp, roasted red pepper cream sauce and grilled onions and toasted pistachios ($11.95/$14.95). Create your own entree ($12.95-$17.95) by choosing a protein, such as chicken, veal, meatballs or seafood, and an accompaniment of sauce and starch, such as butterless lemon-caper wine sauce with grilled onions and mashed potatoes.

The drinks: While the food menu could be called moderately priced, the wine list ranges into the "reserve" range, topping out with a $120 Brunello. Otherwise, the mostly Italian offerings run $8-$12 by the glass and $26-$45 by the bottle. There's a concise draft and bottled beer list, with locals Sweetwater 420 and Red Hare Long Day ($5.50).

The extras: At lunch every day, look for sandwiches ($8.95-$9.95) served on toasted bread with a choice of side, plus appetizers, salads and pastas.