In his first cookbook “Soul,” Atlanta chef Todd Richards looked to his own past as he presented traditional soul food and African American dishes with a personal, forward-looking spin. While that 2018 debut focused mainly within the borders of the U.S., Richards now looks farther abroad with his newly released “Roots, Heart, Soul: The Story, Celebration, and Recipes of Afro Cuisine in America” (Harvest, $35).
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
“I wanted to have a unifying presentation of Afro cuisine,” said Richards, whose influential work as the founding chef at One Flew South earned him numerous awards. “I wanted to give better celebration to its origins, and the delicious effect on foods in North America, and into Central America and the Caribbean. West African food is the mother of so many cuisines in the United States.”
To accomplish that goal, Richards presents the 80-plus recipes in “Roots, Heart, Soul” in historical sections. He and co-author Amy Paige Condon traveled extensively to research recipes and trace the forced journey of enslaved Africans from their point of origin. The book starts with West African recipes like chicken yassa and jollof rice. The next section travels through the Caribbean with dishes like the pumpkin-heavy Haitian soup joumou, stewed Puerto Rican bistec encebollado, or the Dominican espaguetis with salami — a particular favorite of Richards that revealed connections between Caribbean traditions and those of his upbringing in Chicago.
Credit: Clay Williams
Credit: Clay Williams
“We had a lake beach,” he said during a telephone interview from his home in McDonough. “And bringing a pot of fish and spaghetti to the beach with my family was just normal for me, but if you thought about it, you might think it’s a little weird. I had no reference that people thousands of miles from me were growing up the same way as me, all part of the same diaspora.”
RECIPES
Atlanta chef Todd Richards explores the origin and effect of African cuisine in his second cookbook, “Roots, Heart, Soul: The Story, Celebration, and Recipes of Afro Cuisine in America” (Harvest, $35). “The best thing about writing these recipes,” Richards said, “is that it was a great way for me as a proud food nerd to learn about people. And I want people to cook these recipes with their family, their friends, and learn and enjoy, too.”
Bistec Encebollado (Puerto Rican Steak, Onions, and Salsa)
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Traditionally, bistec encebollado is a one-pot stew made with cube steak. Richards reinterprets the concept using seared, braised flat iron steaks, although flank steak will also work. His recipe for Classic Sofrito does double duty as both steak marinade and saucy seasoning.
Sazon, an earthy, smoky spice blend used as a meat or fish rub, is available in prepared mixes in the international or spice aisle of grocery stores.
Credit: Courtesy photo
Credit: Courtesy photo
Classic Sofrito
Richards’ recipe for this sauce eschews vinegar, instead using naranja agria, a sour orange juice, available at Latin grocery stores, some larger supermarkets and online. It should be cooked to a slightly chunky consistency resembling relish, not fully pureed.
16 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
2 cubanelle or Anaheim peppers, seeded and chopped
2 yellow onions, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 bunch fresh cilantro
1/4 cup sour orange juice, such as naranja agria (see note)
1/4 cup lime juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Combine all the ingredients in a food processor, cover, and pulse to a relish-like consistency.
Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 6 months.
Makes 2 cups.
Per 1/4-cup serving: 68 calories (percent of calories from fat, 53), 1 gram protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 4 grams total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 3 milligrams sodium.
Excerpted from “Roots, Heart, Soul” by Todd Richards with Amy Paige Condon. Reproduced by permission of Harvest, an imprint of HarperCollins.
AUTHOR APPEARANCE
6-8 p.m. Feb. 22. Free. Todd Richards will be speaking and signing copies of “Roots, Heart, Soul.” One Flew South, 670 DeKalb Ave. NE, Atlanta. 470-225-7119, oneflewsouthatl.com/beltline. The event is limited to 50 guests. To register, call One Flew South.
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